Six Days Across Arabia
Photographed by Lindsay Feinberg: Marayah Conference and Events Complex, AlUla, Saudi Arabia
DETAILS
When — December 2022
Where — Saudi Arabia
Service — Familiarization Trip sponsored by the Saudi Tourism Authority
Traveling through Saudi Arabia: A Recap From Six Days Across The Kingdom
“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness.” -Mark Twain
I was the type of kid who, having heard that this and that culture and/or color typically didn't get along/thought less of one another, would take it upon myself to try and challenge those stereotypes. "So and so religions don't like each other? That's really stupid!" I wanted to understand the logic behind the 'why's' and change them into 'why not's', if that makes sense.
I have long been curious about and mystified with the Middle East, probably not unlike many other Westerners. But if I'm being honest, my fascination took a more personal turn when I learned relatively later in life that I, Lindsay Feinberg, a Jew, had Muslim ancestors. Ibrahim Bin Ali and his family, who resided just outside of Istanbul, were very religious and devout, and they even made their Hajj (an obligatory, extended pilgrimage that all Muslims are expected to undertake at least once in their lives) to Mecca. I personally take immense pride in being a product of all three religions: Judaism, Christianity, and Islam.
A few months ago, I was hand-picked by the Saudi Tourism Authority to join an educational familiarization trip to the Kingdom with about eighteen other Travel Advisors from across the US. I could not respond "hell yes" quickly enough!
Having previously visited Oman once and the UAE twice, I was excited to add more Middle Eastern countries to my list, as my experiences in each destination were positively life-changing. That said, never in my wildest dreams did I think Saudi Arabia would warmly open its borders to tourists outside of Hajj/Umrah and business-related purposes. In 2019, however, that all changed, and the Kingdom began to allow people from 49 countries to enter for tourism, with stays as long as three months. This visa program is an aspect of an economic reform plan introduced by Prince Mohammed bin Salman (a.k.a. "MBS"), to lower the kingdom’s dependence on oil.
It's been almost two weeks since I've been back from Saudi Arabia, and I wanted to give myself the proper amount of time to rest, collect my thoughts, review my photos, etc. before sharing a full recap of my experience.
When I initially started posting about this journey, even prior to my departure, I was concerned that I'd get negative feedback and, quite possibly, some 'unfollows.' Like everyone else, I am well aware of the stigma, especially being both a female and a Jew. That said, my observation was that most folks who I told or that read where I was headed were fascinated. Not judgmental! Because here's the thing: you simply cannot put an entire religion/country/affiliation/culture/etc. into one bucket and label it/them as 'all bad' or 'all good.' That's completely unfair. I love what Anthony Bourdain said ahead of his own arrival back in 2008, "Is there a country in the world about which Americans are more ignorant or less sympathetic than Saudi Arabia?"
My journey began aboard Saudia Airlines - a dry airline heading to a dry country - on a direct flight from Washington D.C. to Riyadh, and it could not have been more lovely or smooth. The service, cabin aesthetics and seat comfort, and cuisine were second to none; the latter long exceeded what I had experienced aboard both Emirates and Turkish Airlines' Business Class, each world-famous for their food product. And the mocktails? Wow. The freshly squeezed juices, herbal tinctures and infusions, and banana/date smoothies were wickedly delicious. Dare I say that I didn't miss alcohol...that much?
Over the course of my trip, these were the observations that stood out and resonated with me the most:
I felt 100% safe. 200% of the time. There is virtually no crime in the country, as punishment for committing such faces a pretty harsh sentence.
There is SO. MUCH. HISTORY. I literally could not get enough!
Almost everywhere you go, you are welcomed with a thimble of Arabic coffee and a plump, locally-grown date.
We were warmly received virtually everywhere we went. "Welcome to Saudi Arabia," people would randomly say with a smile in passing. Locals were very curious as to where we had come from, and were eager to hear our thoughts and impressions of their country. "Do you have plans for coffee/lunch/dinner? Come join us!" The hospitality shown to us, including these open invitations to join them in their homes, was palpable, heartwarming and, quite honestly, 'from another time.'
Every city/town in which we visited and/or passed through was relatively graffiti and trash/debris-free (no cigarette butts, litter, old furniture strewn in random places, etc.)
As a germaphobe who is easily grossed out, I was completely blown away by the consistently squeaky clean restroom facilities. Most stalls are serviced after each and every use!! What a concept!
Bidets are a thing. And they are prominently displayed in every hotel bathroom, plus more public facilities than you could ever imagine!
Souvenirs, on the other hand, are not a thing. Meaning that you'd be hard pressed to find a lighter that says "I love Riyadh," or even a "Ritz Carlton Jeddah" ball cap. That said, I suspect this will change very soon with the growing influx of visitors.
There are cranes. Everywhere. Saudi Vision 2030 is making some serious headway!
With more important historical sites vs. the current amount of tourists, the experience of visiting these landmarks felt quite intimate. You could literally either touch - or get very near - fortresses/carvings/etc. that date back 2,000 years! Although it was magical to get so close, I know that this probably won't be the case upon my return, as 'the secret' of this up-and-coming destination is rapidly getting out.
The old towns and fortresses were built out of mud and straw with wooden beams, and resemble the adobe dwellings that we see in the southwestern part of the US.
Prior to the discovery of oil, Saudi Arabia's economic structure was limited, and the majority of the tribal population was engaged in nomadic herding and agriculture (date palms).
Most of the Saudi men wear the traditional thawb (ankle-length robe with long sleeves). During warmer weather, white thawbs are worn and, in cooler months, wool thawbs in dark colors are common.
There are some seriously good looking men. In thawbs. I couldn’t stop staring!
Many in our group were politely asked for photos! “You are so beautiful, can we take a photo of you?”
Believe it or not, living an alcohol-free life for a week was actually a pretty welcome break. I slept better, for one, and I was able to really immerse myself in every single activity, from morning to evening.
Instead of CNN or BBC being televised at the gate while you're waiting for your flight to depart in Jeddah, there is a live stream from Mecca.
The 5x/day call to prayer reminds you that, here, faith governs life.
Family first. Always.
Not all women are fully covered, folks!
Oud incense is burned everywhere. And the addicting aroma, remnant of Christmas pines and something that Le Labo or Byredo would produce, is a heaven-sent scent.
For men/boys who are headed to their pilgrimage at Mecca, once they enter the Province - be it via air, sea, or land - they are to remove their clothing and wrap themselves in white towels. Wearing something identical signifies that no man will stand out amongst other pilgrims for his abundance - or deficit - of money.
Of the three destinations we visited - Riyadh, AlUla, and Jeddah - I would say that AlUla was my overall favorite. The airport, still relatively small, is such that, upon exiting baggage claim, you are personally greeted with a traditional thimble of Arabic coffee and a locally grown date! The dramatic red mountains, desert landscape, incredible hotel properties (...and many to come, including three from the Aman brand, alone), and climate (cool mornings and evenings) make this region of the country so special and mystical. That said, I found Jeddah to be completely fascinating, full of history, and beautiful. I especially loved our yacht excursion on the gorgeous turquoise waters of the Red Sea, strolling through the UNESCO World Heritage site and souk (market) at Al Balad (which is also the gateway to Mecca and where my ancestors came to meet the sponsor for their own pilgrimage), and eating the freshest seafood I've ever had in my life.
Are you interested in checking out Saudi Arabia? Before you consider a visit, ask yourself a few critical questions:
Can I visit this country and respect the local culture, dress code, laws, and religious practices? While I may not agree with all of/them, if I am voluntarily going to spend some time there, I need to follow the rules while I am a guest 'in their house.'
Can I gracefully represent the place in which I am coming from? I must always remember that I am my country's ambassador.
Can I leave my preconceived notions and stereotypes at the door in order to welcome new customs, traditions, memories, and friendships?
If you answered "yes" to the questions above, then I'd say you're ready for a visit to the Kingdom! Belle Voyages is eager to send clients over, including leading our own bespoke group tours. Please reach out to me if you'd be interested in learning more about this exciting new destination, especially what's to come with the highly anticipated Red Sea Project!
"...The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.” -Anthony Bourdain
Unless otherwise noted, all photographs have been taken by Lindsay Feinberg
